| Rail First Caroms [message #1003389] |
Thu, 04 May 2006 19:20 |
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This is what I was asking about when I posted about tickys. The object
ball hits the rail first, then an obstructing ball, then goes in the
pocket.
I didn't get any answers that worked for me. No fault of the repliers.
Just my inability to get it. So I worked out a couple of rough and ready
, non-geometrically correct, methods that work for me on a bar table.
1. If obstructing ball is a diamond to 1.5 away from the pocket and a
ball or 1.5 away from the rail, and object ball is in the line of the
obstructing ball to the pocket(about 20 degrees from the rail) find the
spot on the rail opposite the obstructing ball and find a spot about one
ball length away from the pocket along the rail. This is your aiming
point on the rail. If the object ball angle is steeper, aim about an
inch more towards the pocket. If the angle is shallower aim an inch the
other way.
2. The same setup. Find a point opposite the obstructing ball on the
rail where the diamonds are(on a valley table). Aim the railside
quarterball (halfway between mid and edge of ball) of the objectball at
this point. Note where centerball is aimed and use that as aiming point.
These will not likely work for everyone on every table in all cases but
they allowed me on my table within a range of ball positions to make
about 80% of these shots from about a diamond away from the pocket. At
least yesterday. We'll see if it holds true today. And this brings me to
my second thread...
Ed
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| Re: Rail First Caroms [message #1003394 ] |
Thu, 04 May 2006 20:10 |
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Ed McCune wrote:
> This is what I was asking about when I posted about tickys. The object
> ball hits the rail first, then an obstructing ball, then goes in the
> pocket.
>
> I didn't get any answers that worked for me. No fault of the repliers.
> Just my inability to get it. So I worked out a couple of rough and ready
> , non-geometrically correct, methods that work for me on a bar table.
>
> 1. If obstructing ball is a diamond to 1.5 away from the pocket and a
> ball or 1.5 away from the rail, and object ball is in the line of the
> obstructing ball to the pocket(about 20 degrees from the rail) find the
> spot on the rail opposite the obstructing ball and find a spot about one
> ball length away from the pocket along the rail. This is your aiming
> point on the rail. If the object ball angle is steeper, aim about an
> inch more towards the pocket. If the angle is shallower aim an inch the
> other way.
>
> 2. The same setup. Find a point opposite the obstructing ball on the
> rail where the diamonds are(on a valley table). Aim the railside
> quarterball (halfway between mid and edge of ball) of the objectball at
> this point. Note where centerball is aimed and use that as aiming point.
>
> These will not likely work for everyone on every table in all cases but
> they allowed me on my table within a range of ball positions to make
> about 80% of these shots from about a diamond away from the pocket. At
> least yesterday. We'll see if it holds true today. And this brings me to
> my second thread...
>
> Ed
I kinda think you've made one shot work but you haven't shown a method
to how you arrived at it. Your recommendations would be meaningless if
the ball were moved at random and you had to calculate the rail spot.
First, you need to know how the carom will work, that is where the OB
needs to hit the obstructing ball in order to go in off into the corner.
The second thing is you have to calculate the rail spot for the OB to
hit the obstructing ball at the correct carom angle. We've discussed
various methods here but I'd use the mirror principle on this one.
Then you have to throw in some fudge factors for the rail, cloth and
condition of the balls.
Taking these three things into account, you should be able to calculate
any rail first carom shot. Of course, then you'd have to make it as
well and that is another thing altogether. Still, it is very important
to have a method that is consistent for different shots of the same
type. It is easier than trying to memorize every possible shot that
could ever come up.
Stephen N.---> talking pretty big here but talk is cheap...
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| Re: Rail First Caroms [message #1003407 ] |
Thu, 04 May 2006 21:55 |
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Stephen N. wrote:
> I kinda think you've made one shot work but you haven't shown a method
> to how you arrived at it. Your recommendations would be meaningless if
> the ball were moved at random and you had to calculate the rail spot.
>
Of course you are correct Stephen and I wasn't implying that it will
work over a wide range of ball positions. I had thought I made that
clear. This was a QDOS (quick and dirty) method of determining a rail
aiming point for a very narrow range of ball positions which I was
interested in due to the frequency with which they occur in games. A
more comprehensive method, while valuable to know, would likely be just
too complicated to use under pressure. Also I'm sure the table
conditions, spin etc will affect the shot but if I am faced with this
shot to win a game in the future I' m pretty sure I'll make it now. If
the variables are slightly different I'll take my best guess, which is
what I was doing before.
Ed
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